Clay, Pomade or Texture Spray? Men's Styling Products Explained From Our Barbershop

American Crew Matte Clay Spray on a marble surface

"Which product should I use?" is probably the question we hear most in the barbershop at our Helsinki salon, Happy Oskar. The answer depends on two things: the finish you want (matte or shiny) and how much hold you need. Here is a simple guide, using products from our own shelf, photographed by us (backgrounds styled).

Product details come from the packaging of the products themselves. Read How We Research.

The basics: finish and hold

Product type Finish Typical hold Best for
Matte clay Matte, natural Medium to strong Textured, messy and short styles
Water-based pomade Shiny Light to medium Slick, classic, side-part styles
Texturising spray Matte Light to medium Volume and texture, fine hair, pre-styling

Matte clay: Alter Ego Italy Hasty Too Raw Clay

A molding matte clay from the Italian salon brand Alter Ego. On the lid, its scale shows strong hold, good volume and low shine. Clays suit short to medium hair when you want texture and a natural, "not much product" look.

How to use: warm a pea-sized amount between your palms until it is invisible, then work it into dry or almost dry hair from the back to the front.

Water-based pomade: Alter Ego Italy Hasty Too Classic Pomade

Alter Ego Hasty Too Classic Pomade tin
From our shelf at Happy Oskar, Helsinki. Our own product photo, background styled.

A water-based pomade from the same range, with a shinier finish. Water-based pomades generally wash out much more easily than oil- or wax-based ones, which many people appreciate when washing hair daily.

How to use: apply to towel-dried or dry hair and comb through for a sleek, classic finish.

Texturising spray: American Crew Matte Clay Spray

American Crew Matte Clay Spray
From our shelf at Happy Oskar, Helsinki. Our own product photo, background styled.

American Crew is one of the best-known barbershop brands. This spray is labelled as an "oil-absorbing, medium hold, matte texturizing spray": the matte, textured feel of a clay in an easy-to-apply spray. It is a good option for fine hair that gets weighed down by heavier products.

How to use: spray onto dry hair from about 20 cm away, then shape with your fingers.

Do not forget the basics

Cutrin Routa Refreshing Daily Shampoo for men
From our shelf at Happy Oskar, Helsinki. Our own product photo, background styled.
  • Cutrin Routa Refreshing Daily Shampoo: a men's daily shampoo from the Finnish brand Cutrin. Styling products build up, so a shampoo you are happy to use every day matters.
  • Femell Professional Peppermint Shampoo: labelled as a deep cleansing formula for all hair types, with aloe vera. Useful when clays and pomades have built up.
  • ZEW for men Face Cream with black chaga: a men's face cream. After a haircut or shave, skin can feel dry, especially in winter.
ZEW for men Face Cream box
From our shelf at Happy Oskar, Helsinki. Our own product photo, background styled.

Barbershop tips

  1. Start with less product than you think. You can always add more.
  2. Apply clays and pomades to the back first, so the front does not get too much.
  3. Fine hair: choose sprays and light clays. Thick hair: stronger clays.
  4. In wet, snowy weather, a matte clay with good hold usually lasts better than a light spray.

Where to shop

Want to try a different clay, wax or pomade? YesStyle stocks many Japanese and Korean men's styling products.

Browse styling products at YesStyle →

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